The Sporades are the ideal destination for sailing, where nature has bestowed its liveliest colours: clear waters and green trees on the hills up to sea level form a magical landscape and one of the best sailing areas in Greece.
Sailing conditions are relatively easy and ideal for a relaxing holiday, as winds and waves are low, even when the Meltemi is strong in the Aegean Pelagos. Distances are short and the islands' coastlines form numerous bays with safe shelter from all wind directions, allowing you to relax and enjoy the beauty of the islands. There are first-class sailing yachts for hire in Volos where you can start your holiday to the Sporades.
Here is the description of a week-long sailing trip around Trikeri in the Pelio area and the Sporades:
- Skiathos
- Skopelos
- Alonissos
- Kira Panagia (or the island of Pelagos)
Day 1: Volos - Trikeri Island (18 nautical miles)
Our journey began on Saturday; we left the port of Volos on the sailboat around noon. The first destination was the small island of Trikeri, located at the edge of the Pelion peninsula, approximately 18 nautical miles south of Volos harbour. Enjoy the first night in a landscape with crystal-clear sea and pine trees surrounding the safe bay. We anchored the yacht on the south side of the island, opposite the closest point of the Pelion peninsula.
Note that since the trip's destination is the Sporades islands, you need a full day to sail from Volos to the nearest Skiathos or nearby Skopelos, and a day to return.
Day 2: Trikeri - Neo Klima, Skopelos (32 nautical miles)
The next morning, we took a short swim and had breakfast. Early in the day, we sailed to the west coast of Skopelos island. There lies the village of Neo Klima with a small harbour, 32 nautical miles from Trikeri.
This sailing trip can take up to 6 hours, and it's better to arrive before evening because berths are limited, and the harbour is a popular holiday destination, especially in high season. The fishing port has recently been rebuilt and offers about 25-30 spots for tourist boats. There are limited electricity and water facilities, and a local shop with ice and all essentials.
Note, when there are strong northern winds in the large area, the wind direction within the harbour changes due to the steep mountain slopes around it. We had to secure our anchor using plenty of chains. To set the anchor, we approached the opposite dock (the southern pier with the green light) at a distance of five metres. The next morning, the strong wind constantly changed direction in the harbour, causing all boats with shorter anchor chains to struggle with the wind.
Furthermore, it is highly recommended to be equipped with some anti-wasp sprays, candles, or scents, as the islands are full of bees and wasps that can be annoying during the day. What we did to deter them was burn Greek coffee on a plate (carefully to avoid damaging the boat's surface where the plate was placed), it worked as long as the coffee burned.
In Neo Klima, nature provides peace, while the small village is hidden among the trees. Also hidden in the trees is the tavern we visited, owned by fisherman 'Captain Spyros'. Great seafood and reasonable prices.
Day 3: Skopelos - Tzortzi Bay, Alonissos (18 nautical miles)
We left Neo Klima early in the morning and made a stop near Milia beach. The coastline forms open bays, one after another, all safe in calm weather for a swim, but not for an overnight stay. The landscape reminded us of wild jungles with tall trees near the sea, sharp rocks, and many isolated sandy beaches.
According to the nautical charts, the sea off the coast from Neo Klima to Milia beach is free of shallow spots. We anchored about 70 metres from the beach, at a depth of 7-8 metres. There we swam at the most beautiful spot we had seen during this trip and relaxed under the sun for a few hours.
By midday, we travelled to Tzortzi Bay on the east coast of Alonissos, 2.5 nautical miles beyond the island's harbour, Patitiri (total distance from Neo Klima to Tzortzi Bay is 18 miles). Alternative destinations are Chrisi Milia Bay and others located on the east coast of Alonissos, offering good shelter and clear depths.
While sailing south of Skopelos and Alonissos, we realised the strong current from north to south. Meanwhile, we saw a north wind, up to 20 knots (4-5 Beaufort) close by, as we headed northeast towards the east coast of Alonissos. The impact on the boat was that it barely moved, so we had to decide to use the engine or to change course compared to the wind and sail east. The option of an early dive prevailed...
When we arrived at Tzortzi Bay, we only anchored; the bay offers the north side for a line to shore, but the overall protection in the bay made it unnecessary. We quickly succumbed to the calmness of the still sea and the tall pine trees above the island's hills that reached the two small beaches of the bay. One must experience travelling to the Sporades by sailboat to realise the beauty and relaxation that nature has to offer.
Locals say that the bays from Patitiri to Tzortzi can get very crowded with sailboats during the high season (mid-August). During this period, it may be lonelier in the waters of Alonissos and Peristera islands, especially the bays of Alonissos further north.
Day 4: Alonissos, Tzortzi Bay - Patitiri (1 nautical mile)
This day is dedicated to relaxation and wandering in the upper town of Alonissos, "Chora". After a relaxing morning in Tzortzi Bay, or in one of the other nearby bays of Alonissos or Peristera, visit the small port of Alonissos, Patitiri.
Due to the limited size of the harbour, the best time to moor is around noon, when other yachts depart. We saw yachts arriving after 17:00 disappointedly leave because there was no place left to anchor. After refilling the yacht with supplies, we took the bus to the upper town (a 10-minute drive from Patitiri).
This is the only town we visited in the Sporades, due to its unspoiled spirit and the great view of the sea, both on the west and east sides of the island. There are many taverns, bars with beautiful views, and small art workshops. We returned to the port before midnight with the last bus and had another drink on board before going to sleep.
Note that the southern strait between Alonissos and the Peristera islands can increase the wind force a bit, so if you are interested and depending on the weather conditions at that time, you can enjoy sailing through the straits before reaching Patitiri. Also, note that the small harbour offers a very limited supply of water and electricity.
Day 5: Alonissos - Kira Panagia island (14 + 7 nautical miles)
On Wednesday morning, we sailed against the wind, heading north towards the southern bay of Kira Panagia. We sailed through the straits between Alonissos and the Peristera islands, a distance of 14 nautical miles to the southern bay of Kira Panagia, which could be extended if one decides to sail and tack against the prevailing north wind. We noticed that after the strait, the waves became slightly larger as we were no longer protected by the coastlines of the Sporades. Both wind and waves ceased as we approached the island of Kira Panagia.
We anchored behind (i.e., to the north of) the small islet in the bay, using a line to shore. The crystal-clear water has a sapphire-like colour, and the tranquillity of the place relaxes body and mind. After a few hours, we set off towards the northernmost destination of our odyssey: Planet Bay, on the north side of Kira Panagia. Note that in the southern bay, there is an islet at the entrance, on the western side. When we sailed to the northern Planet Bay, we passed between the small islet and Kira Panagia (in the middle of the strait) and then turned north.
Note that in the southern bay, there is an islet at the entrance, on the western side. When we sailed to the northern Planet Bay, we passed between the small islet and Kira Panagia (in the middle of the strait) and then turned north. Also note that the shortest route to Planet Bay is via the west side of the island. However, nautical charts warn that when the wind and waves become strong, it is very difficult to enter Planet Bay from the east. So, in the case of strong winds, we would follow the west coast to tack against the wind.
Additionally, note that on the west side of the entrance to Planet Bay, there is another small rock. In this case, nautical charts warn that vessels should pass through the main entrance due to the shallows between the west side and the small rock.
During our short trip (7 nautical miles) along the west coast, we witnessed many small caves in the rocks by the sea, a sign that these are shelters for the sea turtles and seals protected in the National Marine Park of the Northern Sporades. Due to the rare species in these waters, it is essential to refrain from any form of pollution, oil spills, plastic, and even to minimise the use of soap and detergent; protecting the heart of the Marine Park is crucial to the spirit that brought us to these magical places.
Indeed, the feeling that came over us when we anchored our sailboat in Planet Bay cannot be described in words or depicted in photos. The narrow passage we had to cross to enter the bay created an enclosed landscape, another world that we had finally reached. Our guess is that the feeling of being on "another planet" gave the bay its name. We could also now imagine why the island is called Pelagos, which is the Greek word for the open sea (e.g., the Aegean Pelagos). The place encompasses all the beauties of the Pelagos, combining the ruggedness and tranquillity of the open sea at the same time.
The only downside of Planet Bay is that the enclosed waters (due to the narrow but long passage at the entrance to the bay) lack the transparency so characteristic of all other places in the Sporades. Therefore, do not get too close to the rocks, as even when swimming, I could not realise the shallow waters until the sea was a metre deep. Keep this point in mind, as detailed maps do not show that waters become shallow near the rocks.
When night fell, another unique spectacle appeared. Due to the absence of any other light and the short hills around the bay, we could view the rich sky full of bright stars, which looked like a dome above our heads. Again, we felt like we were on "another planet". It was inevitable to sleep on the deck to watch the falling stars.
Day 6: Planet Bay - Panormos Bay, Skopelos (32 nautical miles)
We left Planet Bay early in the morning after enjoying the first light before the sun rose. It was difficult to leave the place, but it was high time to start the return journey.
We sailed with the wind to the southwest towards the southern cape of Skopelos island. We kept Alonissos to the east and sailed south, between Alonissos and Skopelos. Along the way, we witnessed the rugged west coast of Alonissos, where the trees on the east coast were replaced by steep rocks on this side. The town of Alonissos was revealed as we approached the south, on top of the mountains of Alonissos. To our west, we saw the port of Skopelos from a distance.
After passing Alonissos, we sailed around the south coast of Skopelos island and finally reached Panormos Bay, after crossing 32 miles.
We entered the small opening on the south coast of Panormos to anchor using a line to shore. After the wild nature on the island of Pelagos, we returned to the tranquillity of the green hills of Skopelos. A relaxing afternoon of swimming and sunbathing until nightfall, when the fatigue from the long trip set in.
Note that in case you need to refill again, you can stop at the small port of Agnontas, which is a few miles south of Panormos Bay. Agnontas has a very quiet and picturesque village, surrounded by bright green pine trees. There you will find all the necessities. However, it has been reported that when the south wind prevails (quite rare in the summer months), a swell comes from the open sea, making it difficult to stay at the dock.
Day 7: Panormos - Agia Kiriaki Bay (near Trikeri, 28 nautical miles)
On the last day of the trip, we continued our return to Agia Kiriaki Bay, located at the southernmost point of the Pelion peninsula.
We felt that the 28 nautical mile journey would be long, so we started early but made a short stop on the islet of Tsougria, south of Skiathos harbour and just 8 nautical miles from Panormos Bay. On the southwest side of the islet, a long sandy beach spreads out in a wide bay protected only from the north wind. The beach is surrounded by tall trees with a colourful landscape. We approached a safe distance from the shallows near Tsougkria's edges.
After a few hours of relaxation, we continued our journey south of Skiathos and then the Pelion peninsula, to reach the dock at Agia Kiriaki just before sunset. The walk along the coast was quite romantic. We had a lovely dinner in the tavern near the dock and went to bed early. Beautiful sailing destinations in the Sporades.
Note that the beaches on the inside of the Pelion peninsula are great for anchoring and relaxing, offering tranquillity before the journey ends in the port of Volos. However, it may require a longer trip to have enough time to spend at these beautiful places.
The next morning was Saturday, and the yacht was back in the port of Volos by 9:00 AM.
So, we had to begin our final journey from Ag. Kiriaki at 05:30 to cover the 21 miles. As the sky cleared shortly after we departed and the Pelion peninsula shone from the east, we couldn't help but recall the beautiful places we visited.